Bagru - The Hub of Block Printed Textile

The invention of textiles was one of the major steps towards a more civilised and of course a much more interesting world. There is so much that can be done with textiles, fabrics, clothes as we call them - knit, weave, stitch, sew, knot, crochet, cut, felt, stick, paste, embroider, decorate, colour, dye ... oh there is a plethora of verbs that can be used for anything to do with textiles. The most preferred and maybe the first step in creating masterpieces in fabrics is the way it is coloured or dyed. Cottons are the most popular and preferred fabrics in the world and the best one comes from our dear motherland. The unique styles of colouring and weaving textiles makes India a very very popular destination for textiles businesses all over the world. Right from the era of the "Silk Route" till date, India has been on the world map for textiles / fabrics. Rajasthan has its own identity in this vast marketplace with weaves like Kota Doria, dyes like Leheriya and Bandhej, craftsmanship like Zardozi and Gota Patti and printing like Sanganeri and Bagru. Here we talk about the Bagru printing industry.

What is Bagru famous for?

Who isn’t a fan of the vegetable dyed - hand block printed Bagru textiles. Let us today take you for a behind the scenes trip to this beautifully preserved, three centuries old art form of fabric printing from Rajasthan.

Bagru is a small village 30 km from Jaipur on the Jaipur - Ajmer route. The village / town is not famous for any forts or palaces but a very unique style of fabric printing - known by the name of the village itself as Bagru printing.

Bagru prints can be found all over the world, loved by one and all, the rich and famous too. The best part about the authentic Bagru printing is that it is primarily done on cotton fabrics making these textiles extremely skin friendly and loveable. The fabric is skin friendly and the prints are gorgeous, the colours subtle, the dyes natural - everything that is so positive about Bagru prints. Not just that, the art falls under the handicraft tag and employs the people from the Chhipa community - giving support and livelihood to the artisans. This unique art is GI tagged and is one among the 11 GI tagged goods from Rajasthan.

Preparing the raw cloth

Before the printing begins, there is a lot that goes on with the raw sheet of cloth to prepare it for the process of absorbing the dyes. The raw fabric contains impurities like starch, oil and dust and needs to be cleaned throughly before the blocks touch the fabric. The chhipas prepare a solution of cow dung, soda ash and sesame oil to treat the raw fabric. This fabric then is washed in a solution made with powdered “Harada” seeds. The process removes all the impurities and prepares the cloth for better penetration of colours and gives a yellow tint to the cloth. The tannic acid naturally found in Harada seeds reacts with the “syahi” dye to give it the natural oxidised black colour. The black prints in Bagru printing come thus from a reaction between the naturally prepared Black dye and the tannic acid of Harada seeds. Another popular method of preparing the cloth for printing is a bit different but again involves using absolutely natural ingredients. In this method, the cloth is first smeared in fuller’s earth (multani mitti), dried and soaked in turmeric infused water to lend its unique beige colour which is the base for all Bagru print fabrics. 

Preparing the Dyes

There are two main colours that are used in Bagru printing - Begad and Siyahi as they are locally referred to. Begad is the red dye which is prepared with alum, geru and natural gum the source of which is Gvar (a locally grown bean variety) mostly. Siyahi is the black dye which is prepared with fermented molasses, iron, gum again and starch of tamarind flower. This dye when comes in contact with the pre-treated fabric (harada seed treatment) as explained above, turns to a beautiful shade of black referred to as the Bagru Black. The third important and widely popular colour is the Rajasthani Indigo. Preparing the Indigo dye also is a very typical process and needs years of experience to handle it and get the desired consistency and colour of the final product. Indigo is not water soluble and hence it is chemically treated to change its properties to make it water soluble. The seeds of Indigo plant are boiled and chemically treated to break them down, they are left water soaked for a night before being mixed with gum and alum to get the right shade of blue. The more water used, the deeper the blue turns out to be.

Printing Process

Bagru printing can be classified into two categories - simple printing and daboo printing. The tools used for printing are - dye troughs and wooden blocks. The cloth is stretched over a frame and dyes are filled in different troughs. Wooden blocks with the patterns and designs carved onto them are then dipped in the troughs and pressed onto the cloth - one colour at a time. The wooden blocks are hand crafted and intricate patterns are carved onto them. To make complex patterns, sets of blocks are made - some with outlines of designs and some to fill in the colours inside the designs. The outlines are always printed first and left to dry. Then the colours are filled and dried again. The final fabric is then washed in a solution of alum and water to get the sharpness in the patterns and brightness in the colours. This is simple Bagru printing. Now coming to Daboo printing - it is a little lengthier a process but gives a shaded effect to the printing and is more popular. Here, a paste of clay, gum, gluten and “some secret ingredients” which are the personal secrets of the artisan families are mixed and kneaded well. This paste is then applied to the stretched fabric. Printing is done over the dried paste. Once the printing is completed, the fabric is washed well in the alum water to remove the paste. The actual printed patterns then emerge. The traditional patterns are usually flowers, birds and animals. Some artisans experiment with geometrical patterns too.

Products

Bagru printing is just a method of printing and textiles are printed in this particular way, the end products can range from anything to everything. You could get bedroom linen made, table cloths, cushion covers, curtains, table mats, quilt covers, garments or even use them as wall panels. The choice is entirely yours. Next time you wear that Indigo shirt of yours, we are sure the whole process of how it came to your wardrobe will flash before your eyes.

Want to explore this little industrial town and be a part of the journey of cotton from boll to a shirt? Write to us at pooja@rajasthanroutestrails.com and we shall curate a walk specially customised for you.

Spellbinding Chittorgarh

Rajasthan is the land of Intrigue, Mysticism, Enchantment, History, Culture, Traditions, Forts and Palaces and many many stories- told and untold alike hidden in the precincts of these Forts and Palaces. One such captivating Fortress with its many stories is the Huge, Majestic and spread over vast area is the Fort of Chittorgarh.

Let us take you on a tour of this famous UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The Fort

The fort is spread over 691.9 acres of hilly terrain and is accessible by a zig-zag road through the city of Chittor. The magnificent fort is guarded by seven gates or Pols, the main one being Rama Pol named after Lord Rama. The uniqueness of this Fort is that one can drive through the entire Fort complex and does not need to walk much. Also, there aren't any steep climbs and falls here unlike other Hill Forts of Rajasthan.

Chittorgarh has seen many a battles, many a defeats, many a conquests and many a jauhars (suicide by Rajput women in eventuality of a siege). All this has undoubtedly left the Fort with many scars and thus we see only sections of ruins of the once prosperous Fort scattered all over the 691.9 acres. The history of this Fort is as old as history itself and there are many legends and folklore to keep one engaged and enraptured while traversing the paths that link one Palace to another, one Temple to another and one Tower to another. Also, many legendary historical personalities too are associated with this epic carved in stone.

Brief History

Built by Maurya ruler Chitrangada Maurya, the fort was originally called “Chitrakut”. Over  the years the name changed to Chittor or Chittorgarh (garh means a fort). Another version of the origin of the Fort says that the legendary Pandava Bhim had struck the ground here forming a water body and the tank thus was named Bhimlat Kund and the Fort came to be built around the tank.

Chittorgarh was once the capital of Mewar kingdom. Mewar has had four capitals in all - Nagda, Chawand, Chittorgarh and Udaipur. Among the many dynasties that ruled over Chittorgarh, major part has been with the Paramaras and Sisodiyas with a few times where the Fort fell at the hands of Turkic and Mughal rulers too.

The Fort’s history dates back to the 7th century and the Fort has changed many hands since. The significant names among the rulers of Chittorgarh are Bappa Rawal, Rana Hammir Singh, Rana Kumbha, Rana Sanga, Rana Ratan Singh, Emperor Allauddin Khilji, Rana Uday Singh II, Emperor Akbar besides many others. Each battle and each siege is a complete book in itself and will take lot of time to narrate hence we keep this section very brief.

The Tour

Let us begin our tour with a hello to the inhabitants of the glorious Fort - many species of birds, cows and a huge population of the Langur monkeys (Macaques), the last ones being the most notorious as they are quite capable of laying claims to any eatables brought along by tourists and snatch away carry bags to enjoy the goodies inside.

We start our tour from the farthest point in the Fort Complex - Padmini Mahal or the Palace of Rani Padmini. This is a reconstructed palace on the lines of the original one and is adorned with beautifully manicured gardens inside, surrounded by three storied living quarters. Just as you lay your eyes upon the pristine gardens, the imaginations of the creative mind start galloping like unbridled horses. You are inside the palace of the most beautiful woman of her times, often compared to Cleopatra in her beauty and stature. The legend of Rani Padmini is often dismissed as a folklore and hearsay but the locals here believe in the reality of the tale. The palace is surrounded by a moat which still holds water in it. This palace complex is a photographer’s delight as there is so much beauty around to capture in one’s lens. It is believed that Rana Ratan Singh’s wife, Rani Padmini’s reflection was shown to Alauddin Khilji here through the reflection in the water of the moat. The emperor got so besotted and smitten by her beauty that he waged war against Mewar to capture her for himself. But the valiant Rajputs fought till the last drop of their blood and the women committed mass suicide by self-immolation (jauhar) once they realised that victory wasn’t coming to them this one time. The self - respecting Rajputs preferred death to captivity and ill treatment at the hands of the enemy.

Take your own sweet time to absorb the legend and the beauty of the palace and click away to your heart’s content. Beware of the monkeys though, they might come closer to inspect your stuff! Tired already? Snacks and Soft Drinks and Masala Chai and Coffee are available at the stalls right opposite the Palace Complex.

Move on and visit The Kalika Mata Mandir, The Jauhar Kund, Gaumukh Kund, Meera Mandir, Vijay Stambh and Kirti Stambh, Rana Kumbha Palace, Fateh Prakash Palace and many other small and big ruins of the legendary Fort of Chittorgarh.

The Temples of Chittorgarh

Chittorgarh Fort has many temples within the seven gates that guard the fort complex. Some small and some big and some so significant that devotees throng them all the year round. 

Continuing with our tour back from Padmini Mahal, we arrive at the Kalika Mata Mandir (temple of Goddess Kali). It is believed that whatever you wish for here, comes true. The temple sees a lot of devotees throughout the year all day long. A few steps to climb and you enter the beautiful temple complex. Pay your obeisance here and make a wish. Those who get their wishes fulfilled come to offer Prasad and a saffron painted Trident, many of which can be seen in and around the temple.

Another very famous and revered temple is The Tulja Bhawani Temple dedicated to Goddess Tulja Bhawani and sees many devotees coming here too. There is a strong connection between faith and history. Most of the historical monuments have religious places of worship and see lot of people visiting these places all the year round to make a wish or to pay their respects. 

As you walk along and explore the surroundings of the ruins you would see small rocks grouped and piled one over the other all over the place. This is another popular way of making a wish - that of making rock towers. People who are desirous of owning / building their homes come here and make small symbolic towers with loose rocks that are strewn all over the place. 

Another famous temple here is the Meera Mandir - The temple where the legendary devotee of Lord Krishna, Meera Bai lived and worshipped her deity. There are two temples here next to each other - one where Meera Bai herself prayed and the other built in her honour. Here one finds the foot imprints of the renowned sage and poet Kavi Ravidas aka Raidas. It is believed that Meera Bai sang bhajans here all day and such was her devotion that she would forget to eat or drink and just get possessed by the true spirit of devotion. Irked by her devotion, her brother-in-law once tried poisoning her to death but it is believed that God’s blessings saved her from that too. She later on, like a nomad travelled from place to place singing the praises to her beloved Lord Krishna. Photography is not allowed in the original temple but you can take pictures of the other temple where Meera Bai’s statue also is installed. 

The architectural excellence of that era was such that despite it being a hot summer day with temperatures touching 40 degrees celsius, the insides of all the temples and palaces were noticably cooler than the outside.

Chittorgarh - as the world recognises it

Moving ahead we reach another fenced and protected monument complex where one needs to walk along though the walk inside is barely a kilometre or so. As we entered the compound from the back-gate we met a few village women selling roasted peanuts and grams as snacks. Their attire, silver jewellery and spirit were all exquisite and beautiful. A few exchanges of kind words and a few pictures later we move on to visit the temples in this compound. Many of these temples are in ruins and the Archaeological Department has painstakingly and neatly arranged the chipped off and fallen pieces in the yard around the temples in hope to one day restore them maybe. Admiring the many temples one arrives at a path that goes a little downhill and leads to a water reservoir - this is the Gaumukh Kund which was the main water reservoir for the entire fort, there being 88 others but smaller than this one. Now only 22 of the original reservoirs remain and the source of water is rainwater. One can get a fantastic panoramic view of the city of Chittor from this vantage point. Jauhar Kund - the place where Rani Padmini and other brave Rajput women committed Jauhar, is also nearby. 

After spending some time here and clicking many more pictures we moved on to our next stop - Vijay Stambh - the tower of victory. This tower was built by Rana Kumbha to commemorate the many victories that the kingdom of Mewar achieved. A fine example of great architecture and beautiful carvings, this tower stands tall and signifies the indomitable spirit of the people of Mewar. This also is the most recognised tourist attraction of Chittor. The victory tower is so popular in Rajasthan that many trophies for various school / college / corporate competitions are designed as a replica of this tower. Another similar tower within the fort complex but much older than the Vijay Stambh is the Kirti Stambh. This tower is dedicated to the first Jain Tirthankar (religious and spiritual teacher) - Adinath and is a little smaller than the Vijay Stambh. The tower is adorned by beautifully carved Jain Sculptures.

Our tour ends here as we exit the gates and move towards the city. We were tempted to visit the local markets for some silver jewellery and vibrant dress material but our next destination was beckoning us. Will soon share the details of that here, till then admire these pictures of the fabulous Chittorgarh Fort and read and learn more about the Maharanas of Mewar - their glory, courage and valour and get mesmerised by this one historical thread in the ever-so-wide panelled fabric of Incredible India!

FOOD TRAILS OF GUJARAT

Gujarat is a foodie’s paradise. And we challenge you to finish reading this article without drooling over all the goodies we talk about here. Gujarati cuisine is an eclectic mix of spices, condiments, and loads of sweetness. Primarily vegetarian but believe us your taste buds will not miss the meats at all. The cuisine changes every few hundred kilometres but then that is true for the entire country - cuisines and dialects change every few hundred kilometres in our country.

When in Ahmedabad

The sweet and the tangy

Jalebi

The city has many food hubs including Law Garden and other markets. Not just the authentic Gujarati dishes but also the experimental fusion foods - you can let your taste buds explore every thing. Start with the "Baap" of all experimental food joints - go to Manek Chowk for a flavourful dinner. Be ready for a culinary experience like no other for an extended dinner here. Manek Chowk is in the heart of old Ahmedabad city and is a bustling square which has different markets at different times of the day and night, this place never sleeps. Post late evening, the area is a bustling food court with fusion foods as its main highlight and charm. Indulge in some chocolate and ice-cream sandwiches and all types of kulfi - even a masala kulfi. It is an experimental and eventful food bonanza. Try some pasta dosas, double cheese pizza, pizza with Indian and Chinese twist, different kinds of bhel, all types of chaats, street food from all around the country and for those who have a sweet tooth - indulge in some rabri and jalebi or malpua. You name it and they have it! Top it all up with a tall glass of buttermilk so that the stomach is ready for the next day’s delights. When in Gujarat you can’t do justice to all the toothsome foods in just one day, you definitely need at least a week.

Fafda with raw papaya condiment and kadhi

The next morning you must go for the famous Heritage Walk. The walk culminates at Jami Masjid which is close to a century old Chandravilaas restaurant that serves the most amazing Jalebis and Fafdas. Have a sumptuous breakfast here. Fafda Jalebi is a must have, you may also choose from Khaman, Dhokla, Khandvi, Handvi, Thepla and finish it with a Masala Chai. The place boasts of such clientele as Mahatma Gandhi, Sardar Patel, Kishore Kumar, Dev Anand among many other famous personalities. Proceed for city sight seeing tour after your breakfast.

Next meal has to be another culinary delight. Finish your sight seeing, return to hotel and freshen up for yet another Gujarati speciality dinner. Dinner has to be the world famous Gujarati thali at Gordhan Thaal. The place has a long waiting on weekends but it is always worth the wait. The thali as the name suggests is an authentic Indian platter with many small bowls in which you would be served Undhiyo, Kadhi, Dal, Mixed Vegetables and Basundi. Dry snacks known as "Farsan" usually consist of Kachori and Dhokla. Assorted breads, rice and salad will accompany. Buttermilk to help soothe your stomach. An expert advise here - never say no to buttermilk, it always evens out anything that your stomach did not like despite your taste buds going gaga over it. A few bowls of Basundi or Aamras in summers has never done any harm to anyone.

Let’s go to Bhavnagar

Bhavnagari farsan is famous world over. There is something definitely very special about the namkeens made in Bhavanagar else how would they be so crisp and addictive. You can’t stop at a few, you need to have a couple of bowl-fulls. Gathiya, sev, khakhras and all types of dry fruits - deep fried. Takeaways can be half a kilo of sev to a truck load of all types of farsan. The amazing fafdas come in box like packaging that prevents them from getting crushed. But gathiya are the most popular snack that is even exported from Bhavnagar.

Gathiya

Surti street food

Surat is the diamond polishing hub of the world. What a lovely city - has everything one can want. There are beaches and there are rivers, there is the best wholesale fabric market and then there also is the diamond polishing bazaar. And to call it the destination for the best street food in the world is no exaggeration. It is a foodie’s paradise. Walk along any popular market and the lanes are packed with food vendors selling street foods from around the world - there is Mumbai's Vada Pav and Dilli's (Delhi's) Chaat, Mexico's Tacos, China's Chowmein, Italy's Pizza and America's Burger! Let us just list down a few of these items for you : 

Locho - a modification of khaman served with different sauces. We recommend “Gopal Locho Khaman House” for an authentic experience.

Locho

Surti Khamani - Made from chana dal and garnished with tangy chutneys and crispy sev. 

Ghari - a sweet dish like no other is all we can say. 

Undhiyu - Surati version of the mixed vegetables but definitely much superior in taste. 

Bhajiyas - call them pakoras (fritters) and you will know what we are referring to here. 

Ponk Vadas - A very seasonal dish available for a few days in winters only. It is not only healthy but also very very tasty. Made from fresh Jowar this snack is a must-have. 

Ponk Vada

Collegian chaat - Does the name not say it all? All college goers know about it and it is one of the most popular snacks among the student population of Surat. Main ingredient is peanuts - healthy and filling. 

Nankhatai - Any baker would tell you that nankhatai isn’t just another cookie, it is a celebration in itself. Get the best ones from a two hundred years old bakers - Dotivala Bakers and Confectioners. 

Ice Dish - The ice gola got a makeover and became Ice Dish! Crushed ice topped with vanilla ice cream and fresh cream and nuts and flavoured squashes - thats the sinful ice dish for you. 
Rassawala Khaman Dhokla - Yes, add spiced up gravy to your regular dhokla and you get this amazing curry. Have it just like that or with Pav or roti or rotla. 

Egg Paratha - Your Frankie as the egg roll is called in Mumbai became egg parantha in Surat and got a little more spice and a little more butter to make it tastier. 

Surat should actually have a separate blog post dedicated to the street food of Surat. Life in Surat can never be boring.

The Parsi Food Trail - Udvada  

Udvada Atash Behram

The closely knit peace loving community preserves its heritage so beautifully that we recommend a visit to Udvada to one and all. Walk through the quaint and peaceful town clicking pictures of heritage homes. The famous Atash Behram Fire Temple or Agiyari as they call it is an architectural marvel to behold. Non-parsis are not allowed inside the temple but you can click many many pictures of the facade from outside. Parsis’ cuisine is very unique and so different. There are some old cafes and hotels here where you can taste the very original and authentic Parsi food. The world famous dhansak, mutton pulao and papeta tarelli chicken need to be devoured with full greed. Other specialities include khurchan - dry roasted spicy organ meat, patra ni machchi, crispy chicken farcha, fluffy Parsi omelette, dudh na puff and for the dessert you must have lagan nu custard and hand churned ice cream in the seasonal fruit flavour - mango and seetaphal being the most favourite. 

Nankhatai

Welcome to Vadodara

Once you are done with visiting the world famous Laxmi Vilas Palace and other sight seeing, it is time to indulge in the butter-rich street food in Baroda / Vadodara. Best places to eat obviously will be found near the university campus. Try the egg preparations - omelettes, not-so-French French toast, spicy anda bhurji and the evergreen most loved boiled eggs. Another popular food item from Baroda is the Bhakarwadi, a twirled savoury snack - spicy and tangy. Baroda has a lot of Maharashtrian influence and hence Vada Pav and Misal Pav also are quite popular here. Like Ahmedabad, Baroda too has lot of fusion food stalls all around the city. Do sink your sweet tooth in the falooda ice cream after your eggy dinner.

Street Food - Vadodara

Operation Flood 

Milk lovers, you all know about the revolution called Operation Flood aka Amul that started from Anand and swept the whole country, inundating the lives of all Indians with milk and nourishment. Immerse your taste buds in flavoured milk, ice creams, cheeses and Shrikhand. You can find Amul anywhere in Gujarat and in the rest of the country too. But so many flavours of Shrikhand can only be found in the land where Krishna, the God who loved cows and milk, is worshipped. Oodles of butter and creamy fluffy Shrikhand must go with every meal. Indulge in the goodness of this health food. Visit the Amul factory for freshest chocolates and ice creams.

Shrikhand

The indigenous burger : Kutchhi Dabeli

A Gujarat trip is incomplete without a visit to the Rann of Kutchh - the white desert. Kutch is also famous for its very own version of burger - The Dabeli. A soft bun, filled with squishy spicy potato filling, topped with nylon sev and chutney and roasted peanuts, main attraction being the ruby-red pomegranate seeds. These come with a warning : NO ONE CAN EAT JUST ONE!

Kutchhi Dabeli

Jamnagar Ghughra

Ghughra

Popular street food from Jamnagar is Ghughra which is a deep fried “Gujiya” shaped snack. The fillings are usually made of chana dal or spiced potatoes. Crispy and spicy - a perfect evening snack with your hot cuppa!

Porbandar Khajali 

Khajali is a kind of spicy deep fried biscuit. Best paired with hot beverages like masala chai, it is an irresistible and addictive snack. While you are picking up your supply of Khajali, you must visit the spice market in Porbandar too. Porbandar is Gandhiji’s birthplace and Kirti Mandir, the Mahatma’s home is a must visit site here. Also visit the Sudama Mandir and Bharat Mandir.

Khajali

What to carry for friends and family

Fafdas, Khakhras and Nan Khatai of course! Then there is Bhavnagari farsan, bhakarwadi and dry fruits. You can also pick some ready-to-make mixes of khaman and dhokla and make them later at your home. For fafdas and khakhras we recommend Induben Khakhrawale though these are available all over Gujarat and are promoted through cottage industry. A packet of Porbandar Khajali will slip in easily in your luggage. Another popular snack that can be carried along is the Chorafali, deep fried spicy fritters of besan and urad dal. 

Khakhra

If you are a food blogger, a food photographer, a food connoisseur, a food critic, a food technologist or in simple words, if you LOVE FOOD, take a food trail across Gujarat with us and savour the many flavours the vibrant land has to offer.  


Images sourced from : Flickr, Pinterest, Maps of India, Youtube, Indiamart

Plan your food trail - click here.