Jodhpur in a Day

The first advise your travel services provider will give you is : Jodhpur can not be covered in a day. Exactly! Because there is so much to do and see in and around the Blue City that even a week is not enough to explore the Gateway to Thar. But here is a quick guide for the millennials and jet setters who want quick breaks and want sight seeing and shopping added to those many hours.

Arrive in Jodhpur previous night to have a full day here. Next morning start early to cover maximum attractions in the limited time. Start with a nice filling breakfast and head for a Village Safari. The safari covers a truly rural experience in a desert village. Visit the vegetable market, potters’ homes, opium cultivators homes, meet the shepherds, the nomadic tribals who camp around here and click many pictures of camels, peacocks, sheep, goat, mongoose, partridges, deer, chinkara / chital, bluebulls and if you get lucky some black bucks too. See the countryside in its original rustic form. Visit the local temples and shrines and artisans who create the world famous durries. Spend time here and if it pleases you, shop for some marvellous durries right from the makers themselves. A cup of tea with them, if you like and we head back to the city. The whole safari is spread over a roundtrip of around 75 kms and takes approximately 3-5 hours depending upon what captures your interest.

Once back from the safari, head to a local restaurant for some delectable Marwari food - choose between a vegetarian Rajasthani Thali or Laal Maas (the famous mutton preparation from Marwar) with some butter naans (breads). Wash it all down with a tall glass of buttermilk. Next we drive around the cityscape of Jodhpur where you see beautifully carved facades of homes and offices in red or yellow sandstone. The sandstone from Jodhpur is sent all over the country and many iconic buildings are made in this stone. Snaking through the city lanes we now reach the magnanimous Umaid Bhawan Palace, a part of which is a hotel. The other two parts house a thoughtfully curated museum and the private residence of the erstwhile Maharaja of Marwar. The museum has a lovely collection of time pieces, trophies and crockery besides other artefacts. Make it a quick trip to save time for the Mehrangarh Fort.

Don’t forget to take pictures at Umaid Bhawan Palace and then leave for the Fort. Your guide will regale you with interesting facts and stories that will transport you back to the era gone by. Reach the Fort complex and make sure you carry water bottles and use the washrooms before you embark on this mesmerising experience. The plan is to see the Fort, museum that is housed inside the Fort and walk all the way to The Clock Tower in the main city - yes! Your heritage walk through the old city of Jodhpur. 

Comfortable shoes are a must as there are many inclines and declines along the path. An elevator will carry you up 13 floors to the ramparts of the Fort. Take in the spectacular view of the Blue City from here. The view of the Umaid Bhawan Palace from here is breathtaking. Your guide will show you the important landmarks - Gulabsagar, Ghantaghar (clock tower), Nai Sarak, Jaswant Thada etc. A functional Persian Wheel which was used for lifting water in olden times is perched on a side of this section. Move on to the Mardana and Zenana Dyodhis and get lost in the world of exhibits from the past. The Elephant Houdas, Palanquins, Paintings, Armoury, Artefacts, clothings, tents and even a section containing the Royal Cradles will keep you totally absorbed and amused. The living quarters of the Royals - Phool Mahal and Sheesh Mahal and the precious Belgian Coloured Glass everywhere are to be seen and photographed. Goosebumps inducing Sati Hand Prints near the exit will make you wonder how courageous the women of those times were. A very quick stop at the museum shop and we start our heritage walk.

Since the Fort is on a rockhill, the walk is all downwards from the Fort. Old narrow lanes where a car can not enter but are lined with clean homes that are all built on a higher plinth than the street for obvious reasons of keeping the homes clean. Lot of indigo around, the walls are painted blue to keep the homes cool in the Sun City. Women sitting on the steps and porches casually chatting away and children managing to play gully cricket in these narrow lanes keep the atmosphere very lively. People on two wheelers appear and disappear from the many side lanes. People take their tea breaks in the open verandahs that some of the homes have. Carved and decorated facades of old Havelis which are still inhabited by the descendants of the original inhabitants. People from mixed cultures and castes live in these narrow bylanes. You will see small jewellers’ workshops on the way, bangle makers, gota (shimmery lace) shops, stores that keep marriage ceremony essentials, fabrics, saree stores line the markets. Navchowkiya is a market square where nine streets branch out from. There is an old well and a temple here. A turn from here and you reach Toorji Ka Jhalra - an ancient step well. Rajasthan is home to many step wells which were made to store rain water for use during the long dry spells. Jodhpur city has three of such step wells, the most picturesque one being Toorji Ka Jhalra built in 1740 by Maharani Tanwarji (Toorji) wife of Maharaja Abhay Singh Ji . Walk along and you will reach Ghantaghar. Thirsty and tired? Mishrilal Lassi Wala has an elixir to offer in the form of Makhaniya Lassi and Rabri. Got a sweet tooth, pick a few imartis too. Hungry? Samosas and mirchi badas are the answer.

Time for some shopping now. Chiffon sarees in badhni and leheriya, turbans, sarees in gotapatti and zardozi work, Jodhpuri Jutis, silver jewellery, lac bangles, cotton dress material and if you wish to indulge in some exclusive jewellery shopping then Polki and Jadau jewellery is famous here. Uncut diamonds and stones are set in Gold and are made in beautiful traditional and modern designs.

Dinner at a heritage hotel to savour some more of Rajasthani delicacies in the form of Ker Sangri, Gatta curry, Kadhi or Khato with rotis. Some mouth watering Makhkhan Badas as dessert and its time to hit the bed after such a busy day. Hot water shower before that is highly recommended!

Want us to take you around on the above mentioned tour? Just click here.

A College with a difference : Barefoot College Tilonia

Many words are used to describe the movement called women empowerment but once you visit Tilonia the only word that comes to fore is sustainability; empowerment is a by-product. This unique concept conceptualised and realised by Mr.Bunker (Sanjit) Roy gives a helping hand to those women who do not have the resources but have a strong will to learn and make a difference. You do not need a basic educational qualification to be eligible to get admission here, nor are you bound by a minimum or maximum age factor - same goes for the teachers too. The mamas (that’s how they are lovingly referred to here in Tilonia) give six months of their lives to this one-of-its-kind college and learn such life skills that help them attain any heights in profession, skill, and financial independence. Imagine a woman who, a victim of circumstances could not finish her education, was married off early in life and has no hope of ever having a control over her life. Barefoot college is that ray of sunshine in the lives of these women that gives them a dream and the tools to realise that dream.

We have been recommending a visit to the college to many a visitors over many years but hadn’t had a chance to go there ourselves. On one fine day while enroute Jodhpur from Jaipur, we just decided to take a right turn to where the arrows were pointing and head to the Barefoot College. Without a prior intimation or an appointment we just showed up at their “visitor information centre”. Somewhere inside, we were prepared to get disappointed and knew we would be turned away. But thanks to the considerate visitor coordinator, Mr.Brijesh Gupta who took out time from his extremely busy day and did not let our hopes of getting to know Barefoot College get dampened. He offered to take us on a short trip across the set-up. His reason was simple, “you have come this far to know about us, so I will let you get a glimpse into what we do”. Having spent over three decades of his life here, Mr.Gupta is a true ambassador of the college and the cause.

Before I take you on a tour of the college through my written word, let me tell you honestly that however hard I may try or howsomany words I may use, I would not be able to do justice to the introduction to this Oasis of upliftment nestled in rural Rajasthan. One has to visit and soak in the experience to understand what the college for the poor does. I would still try and make a humble attempt. Rest, you must listen to the man himself here.

The Campus

The campus is divided in two parts - old and new. We drove to the new campus which is around 5-7 minutes away from the old one. The first look itself is so inviting that you want to get enrolled here yourself, or at least be a part for a day at this amazing college. As one sets foot on the campus, one is continually amused and amazed at the revelations that hit you one after the other. The words “looks can be deceptive” best describe what you see here. We saw a group of traditionally clad village women huddled around some iron rods on the ground under a shed. A closer look revealed that the women were but a group of skilled welders and were finishing their day’s job! If that doesn’t surprise you, what will? But wait, there are more such surprises coming along. Another shed and another group of ladies in traditional Rajasthani outfits and grandmotherly wrinkles on their faces. Not underestimating their capabilities, we sheepishly asked what their skills were and LO! They were Solar Cooker Manufacturers!! These ladies who could not complete their basic education were now successfully making and assembling solar cookers, the parabolic basic cookers that can prepare a meal in ten minutes. You would wonder, if they haven’t finished basic schooling, how then do they understand the measurements and precisions that are needed in such scientific tasks. Well, the answer lies in COMMON SENSE and REFERENCE. They are not taught theory here, they learn through practicals straightaway. Their scales are painted on the flooring for them to use as references, colours are used as codes to teach the wiring wherever needed.

Next, we came to the main classrooms at the college. Now this was a truly awe inspiring experience. The classroom can best be described as a globe enclosed in four walls and a few windows. Ladies from all around the world (101 countries are now a part of this movement) were learning technical skills here in this centre. They are adoringly referred to as “solar mamas” at the Solar Energy Technical Centre. Gupta Ji called out the name of the country and the ladies raised their hands smilingly. Here they were learning to make circuits for solar lights, lamps, and lighting systems. To simplify the learning process, colour codes were given to components and wires and put up on boards in the classroom and sign language was used for communication. The teachers were all from nearby villages - men and women and were teaching this mixed group without knowing their languages. Another board gave out the numbers of women from different countries. Women from one nationality sat together for making it easier to comprehend and help each other but in the hostel the group is kept all mixed up. And guess what, like in any classroom, you could see the students chatting with each other without even comprehending each others’ languages!

Still in awe of what we just saw, we were directed towards another room where the trainers were being trained. These men and women of all ages were too busy learning the skills that they would then impart further to the women who come here to learn and become independent. Another room was a huge computer lab. This was just one section of the college that Mr.Gupta could take out time to show us. There are many other such sections where women learn other skills like embroidering, sewing, weaving, handicrafts and technical centres where they learn to make water filtration and desalination systems. The basic premise that the college functions around is sustainability, harnessing the sun’s energy and harvesting the rain water eventually becoming self sufficient.

The Culture

There is an air of comfort and simplicity around here in this college campus. The women come from far and wide to devotedly give six months of their busy lives here to takeaway a priceless gift for life - skills to be independent. They do not understand each others’ tongues or cultures but what they understand is an environment of love, compassion, care and camaraderie. The batch usually comprises of 25-30 women from different countries. Two such batches run in a year. The group is all mixed up and women share space with other women from a totally different cultural background. This helps in forging a bond so strong that they weep and cry when they depart and make promises to always keep in touch, which we are sure they are keeping too. 

The mess cooks up vegetarian affair from locally sourced seasonal vegetables and grains and the food is relished by one and all. Once in a while, non-vegetarian food also is served keeping in mind the varied group of varied food habits that is assembled here. 

There is a local clinic close by which is their go-to medical centre in case anyone falls ill. For cases that require a detailed investigation or treatment, the closest city is Kishangarh where they are referred to. The whole bunch of students and trainers are like one big happy family and take care of each other in such times. The college has its own transport department and vehicles.

Mr.Gupta added, this is such a valuable opportunity for these ladies that they do not consider taking leave before their six months are over, not even for emergencies and exigencies back home or in case of a loss of a loved one. They mourn and grieve here only, with the new found family because they know that once they go back, joining the course again would be totally out of question. 

What’s in it for these students

Number one of course is the priceless skill that they learn which will empower them to start their own businesses or get better paying jobs if they so desire, but in most cases they use their skills to brighten their own communities, villages, cities. The statistics of how many villages across the world have been lit up by these solar mamas will surprise you. 

Then, comes the personal touch and family atmosphere which is highly conducive for learning. Besides this each of these students gets a pocket money of Rs. 4000/- per month for the duration they are here. That is not all, they are given USD 700 per student when they finish their course and return to their respective countries. Many corporates, business houses, families have joined hands to partner and ensure the success of the cause. A whole list of these partners is available on their website www.barefootcollege.org .

Totally self sustained

The Barefoot College at Tilonia has to its credit a unique radio station which is run, operated and listened to by the people involved in this noble cause. The audience reach of the radio station is more than 50,000. 

The college generates its own solar energy and runs completely on this energy. They make their own solar lamps and cookers, have their own water purification system too.

A small telephone exchange has been set up which supports 250 lines. 

There’s a night school for village children where they are taught basic life skills, about politics, about democracy and are made to role-play into forming a cabinet of ministers and a Prime Minister.

A small marketplace - shop and online - which sells the handicrafts made here and assists in keeping the economy of the college in place.

And a Bank too - Union Bank of India has a branch running within the campus.

How Can You Help

The Barefoot College is not just another NGO where one donates money to support the cause. Donations though are always welcome but a helping hand would be more welcomed here. If you have a skill, the knowledge of which you wish to share, you can write to the authorities at the college and they would get in touch with you. Most of the volunteer work is in the form of an unpaid internship which will earn you a much coveted experience and in turn open many doors for you in your personal and professional life. Volunteers come here from all across the globe. Minimum duration for an internship is three months.

You can also choose to buy gifts and souvenirs for your personal use from their shop “Hatheli Sansthan” and contribute in your own little way. The shop is a treasure trove of handicrafts, toys, stationary, linen and hand crafted artefacts and wearables. You can visit their shops at the campus or on Jaipur - Ajmer Highway or can also shop online.

Barefoot College is not just a college that teaches skills but is a revolution in itself. Come and be a part of this inspiring movement, be it for a few hours only. Call us or write to us to help arrange an educational tour for you to Tilonia’s Barefoot College. Click here to get in touch with us.

Fifteen reasons to visit and re-visit Rajasthan

The land that is home to the largest subtropical desert in India, is dotted with many majestic hill forts, has many pilgrimage sites, comes alive with melodious music and dances, hosts many migratory birds, serves up the best to your taste buds does not need any introduction nor any reasons enumerated to attract visitors but does it not feel good to count your medals and certificates on your finger tips? Here we tried to assimilate most of the wonders in just fifteen points. Read on …

1. Colours, dialect, attire change here every fifty kms

The land of Maharajas serves up a cocktail in terms of an eclectic mix of culture and tradition. People speak so many different tongues here, dress up differently and have diverse customs. Something as Rajasthani as the Bandhej also has different styles in different cities. And what’s more, the cities themselves too are categorised by colours; Jaipur is Pink, Jodhpur is Blue and Jaisalmer is Golden.

2. Fascinating, alluring, tantalising and intriguing places and stories

Rajasthan has Bhangarh, the fort-town counted among top-ten most haunted places in India. A visit to this town is a must and trust us can garner enough goosebumps with its many spooky stories. 

Rajasthan also has Kuldhara, the abandoned village. Kuldhara has its own unique story to tell too. Do these trivia interest you? Here’s the fodder http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/06/kuldhara-mystery.html . 

Then, Rajasthan also has Chittorgarh, the fort that is an epic in itself. The fort has seen the lives and times of many a legends from Meera Bai to Rani Padmawati to the valiant King Rana Sanga. The fort also houses the chill inducing Jauhar Kund. Then, Kumbhalgarh with its own stack of facts and tales. The many temples in the state also have very many interesting stories to keep a curious tourist amused.

3. The most magnanimous Forts and most luxurious Palaces

The land that proudly boasts of the best forts - intact, restored, and preserved to take you back to the era gone by and the opulent palaces that show you what the days of Maharajas were like. The maximum number of forts and palaces are here in this beautiful desert state - wear your most comfortable walking shoes when you go sight seeing - the forts are expansive and sweeping with many slopes and inclines and stairwells to tread.

4. As many as ten GI tagged products are from Rajasthan

You know what the GI tag means, right? It is the geographical indication tag that specifies that a certain product is indigenous to the mentioned geographical location. For example, no other place in the world can lay a claim on the origin of Bikaneri Bhujiya as the product is GI tagged from Bikaner in Rajasthan or for that matter Blue Pottery of Jaipur can not be said to originate from any other place other than Jaipur. The list for all you interested friends is mentioned below :

Kota Doria 

Blue Pottery of Jaipur http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/07/a-town-within-city-industries-of.html

Molela Clay Work

Kathputlis of Rajasthan

Sanganeri Hand Block printing http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/07/a-town-within-city-industries-of.html

Phulkari

Bagru Hand Block Printing http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/05/bagru-hub-of-block-printed-textile.html

Thewa Art Work

Bikaneri Bhujiya

Makrana Marble

5. Many World Heritage Sites and World Heritage City too

Picture Courtesy : Mr.Hemant Sharma

The culturally rich heritage of Rajasthan is recognised world over. UNESCO has tagged many sites in Rajasthan as World Heritage Site with Jaipur now proudly gracing the list of world Heritage Cities too. All the Hill Forts, Jantar Mantar and Keoladev National Park are all a part of this tribe!

6. Vibrance of many fairs and festivals

So, there is an yearly fair and festival calendar in Rajasthan with each festival unique and different in its own way. Each festival is associated with a different dance form, folk art, special delicacy and a unique purpose too. While there are animal fairs like Pushkar and Nagaur, there also are processional fairs like Teej and Gangaur, vibrant funfares like the Kite Festival, Holi and Desert festivals and then some associated with the prominent monuments like the Kumbhalgarh Fair, Abhaneri Festival too. Religious festivals like Ranakpur fair and Khwaja Mounuddin Chishti’s Urs at Ajmer are also celebrated with much fervour. Follow this link to keep abreast of the upcoming fairs and festivals http://rajasthanroutestrails.com/upcoming-events

7. Home to the Aravalis

Did you know that Aravali ranges are India’s oldest mountain ranges? Well, yes they are and they are right here in Rajasthan nestling the many beautiful temples and forts and forests, home to diverse flora and fauna.

8. Shoppers’ Paradise

Each city here has a distinct product that it is known for and equally distinct markets where these products are displayed and sold. Be it the Tie and Dye or the Bagru or Sanganeri Block prints or potteries from different areas, leather craft from Jaisalmer or Bikaner or Kota Doria from Kota, Thewa from Pratapgarh… the list goes on and on and on… Visit one such vibrant bazaar here http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/06/rural-market-at-jojawar-shopping-with.html and take a shopping tour through the Pink City by following this link : https://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2019/06/when-in-jaipur-part-1-shopping-guide.html

9. Largest subtropical desert and the ship of the desert

See the marvel of the shifting sand dunes and go for a camel safari. Rajasthan houses the world’s 18th largest desert, India’s largest. The deserts are alive though, with folk music and dance and fairs and festivals and many tourists who visit this mesmerising land to witness the horizons and sunrises and sunsets.

10. Many pilgrimage sites for people from all religions

Jain temple trail in Rajasthan attracts pilgrims and tourists alike all the year round. These temples are an example of architectural wonder in themselves. Carved out of marble, most of these temples are intact and well-preserved. Besides the Jain temples, we have the Dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti, Govind Dev Ji temple, Karni Mata Temple at Deshnok where you witness a million rats being worshipped and taken care of, Tannot Mata Temple right near the International Borders and Baba Ramdevji’s Shrine too. And some very unique ones like the Bullet Bike temple - http://rajasthanroutestrails.blogspot.com/2018/03/of-many-intriguing-stories-that-are.html

11. Cities that hold unique records

Kota holds the record of housing maximum number of students in the country and also for producing maximum number of future Engineers and Doctors. Udaipur holds the record for hosting maximum number of destination weddings and corporate events, Jodhpur has Umaid Bhawan Palace which is one of the world’s largest private residences and Amer Fort gets maximum tourist visits in the country to a fort (very close to The Taj Mahal’s visitors’ numbers) and Abhaneri holds the record of having the largest step well. The longest wall after the Great Wall of China is right here in Kumbhalgarh - 36km! Want to walk, anyone?

12. The diversity of cuisine - sweet and spicy

Dal Bati Churma, mirchi bada, pyaaz kachori, Kota kachori, Ghewar, Pheeni, Gulab Halwa, Ghodwa, Lal Maas, Safed Maas, Masala Bati, Kadhi or Khato, Ker Sangri, Gatte ki Sabji, Rabori, the list is endless my dear friends. Rajasthan’s kitchens cook up some most amazing curries, namkeens and mithais. Imagine a dish so unique as Gulabjamun ki sabji and you know what we are talking about! Indulge in a Rajasthani Thali to satisfy your taste buds. Take away some different varieties of mouth watering Churma boxes with you.

Picture Source : Trip Advisor

13. Folk dances and Music

Artistically inclined, the folk artists from Rajasthan have earned many a national and international laurels. So many dance forms and so many musical instruments that Bollywood music directors come here to seek inspiration. Ghoomar, Gowari, Kaalbeliya, Chari, Kathputli, Bhawai are the many dance forms from the state. And Ravanahatha, Kamaicha, Morchang, Sarangi, NaagPhani, Khartal and Algoja are just a few of the many musical instruments that are indigenous to this land. Manganiyars, Langas, Kaalbeliyas, Sapera, Bhopa, Jogi are few of the tribes that have still preserved this musical heritage of theirs and are now owning the World Stage with flamboyance.

14. Padharo Mhare Des

True to this tagline, the people of Rajasthan are the most hospitable and amiable hosts. Maximum number of village safaris, rural visits, rural home stays and cook-in sessions happen here. People are more than willing to open their homes and hearts for the tourists. People here take pride in showcasing their culture and traditions. You come as a visitor and go back as a family member to return more and more often.

15. Distinct and clearly demarcated seasons : each with its own colours and hues

Summers are scorching hot and dry with a dusty yellow haze, Monsoons bring in the colour green, winters surprise you with a variety of lovely flowers and an icy tint on everything and then again the colours change as we move from winters through Holi festival to summers again. Stay a whole year to experience this magic.

We are sure after reading this, first break and you are packing your bags and heading here. Let us guide and help you in exploring the Best of Rajasthan. Click here to start planning your tour.