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Sunday 26 August 2018

Mehrangarh : The Pride of Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort



Rajasthan is the land of Forts and Palaces, each one unique in its own way, each one more beautiful than the other, each one more majestic than the other, each one more intriguing than the other and each one carrying more stories than the other. Let's take a tour of The Mehrangarh Fort of Jodhpur - a privately owned and managed Fort in Rajasthan, the present descendants of the erstwhile Royal Family of Jodhpur own and maintain the Fort and the museum housed within the Fort Complex.




Welcome to The Museum!




History

The transition of Marwar to Jodhpur happened at the strong and able hands of Rao Jodha (1459) after the need to shift out of Mandore was felt. Mandore being an old and dilapidated fort was crumbling and since it was in the plains was always at risk of being attacked. The rocky hill of Bhakurchiriya was then chosen and its only inhabitant a sage, the bird man Chiriya Nathji was approached and coaxed to vacate and allow the construction of the fort. After much pleading when the sage gave consent and a curse ; followed by efforts of appeasement and eventual reluctant appeasing, the construction of the mighty fort began. A human sacrifice as per the norm of the day and the mammoth task of building one of the mightiest forts started. It took many many years and many generations to complete the task thus taken, one feature being added at a time and finally the Fort took its present shape. Much of the progress happened during the reign of Maharaja Jaswant Singh Ji (1638-1678). One must nor forget the sacrifice of Raja Ram Meghwal, a commoner who voluntarily agreed to get buried with the foundation of the fort to nullify the effects of the curse. A commoner, meghwal's name is immortalised in a plaque at the fort.

The Blue City


The Fort

Mehrangarh - Up close
The expansive multidimensional fort is accessed through seven gates or pols. Of these pols some are still intact while others’ remnants remain. These are named as Jai Pol, Fateh Pol, Loha Pol and so on. To make the Fort easily navigable and simpler to understand, the museum trust that maintains the Fort Complex has very brilliantly designed a one-way path through the entire length and breadth of the Fort which eases the walk and the tour for the many tourists the fort attracts all the year long. 
Jai Pol



From the Ramparts

The parking lot, ticket counters and you begin your tour through the magnificent world of history of Marwar through Jai Pol. A slight incline, a couple of steps and an elevator that takes you up thirteen floors and you are on the ramparts of one of the mightiest fort ever built, looking down at the sea of indigo of the famous Blue City. The houses are painted blue to keep the sun’s heat away as the Sun City is blessed with bright and cheery (sometimes too fiery though) Sun all the year round. Photographers, go wild and take as many shots as you want. Get your creative best! Feel the breeze caressing your face and twirl 360 degrees to see the landmarks of Jodhpur, all at once from your perch here : fort wall against the old city, the small water bodies, rocky hills with many temples, Jaswant Thada and the statue of Rao Jodha, snaking road that leads up to the fort, The One And Only Umaid Bhawan Palace, Ajit Bhawan Palace, Ratanada Ganesh Temple, Clock Tower, Old City Markets and Gulab Sagar.

Umaid Bhawan Palace as seen from The Mehrangarh Fort


The passages lead from one palace to another, each one more beautiful and luxurious than the other. Aptly named Moti Mahal (palace of pearls), Phool Mahal (palace of flowers), Sheesh Mahal (palace of mirrors), Sileh Khana (armoury) and Daulat Khana (Treasury), these sections are all interconnected and presently are used for the display of the treasures of history. Then there is a Zenana Dyodhi (ladies’ apartments) and a Mardana Dyodhi (gentlemen’s apartments). The Fort also houses a few temples, the well-stocked museum (in the palaces mentioned above), a museum shop where you can find replicas of the famous art pieces and a restaurant by the name of Chokelao.
Clock Tower / Ghanta Ghar

The Museum

Ivory carved toys
One of the best stocked Museums in Jodhpur, the Mehrangarh Museum Trust maintains the collections and their upkeep. Very neatly and immaculately categorised and displayed, the many exhibits are well preserved and protected. Difficult to enumerate all of them here, but we will highlight a few favourite ones. The tour starts with the Coronation courtyard and the Coronation Seat of the present His Highness when he was coronated at a tender age of four. The marble carved seat is permanently fixed in the courtyard with a little description about the ceremony and its significance written on a placard near it.
Silver Houdah
Palanquin

Walking along, you would enter the hall of Houdahs (seats fixed on elephants). Many Houdahs are exhibited here, some made out of wood and some in silver, some for the kings and some, with curtains, for the queens, some gifted and some won as trophies. Next hall is the Palanquin Hall which stores different types of Palanquins or Palkhis as they are locally referred to. Elaborately carved, with velvet curtains, paintings and some even with shutters, these were the means of transport for the women of the Royal household. A few palkhiwalas would carry them around with the lady sitting inside. These Palanquins also travel for various exhibitions all over the world. 

Shiva Temple / Opium Filter
A collection of spears
Painting 
Opium was an integral part of daily lives of people of Marwar before it was banned for regular consumption by the Govt. Just as we step out of the Palanquin Hall, there is a very interesting miniature Shiva Temple made out of silver which is kept in a niche in the courtyard wall. This actually is a filter that was used for filtering opium water through filters made out of felt. The filtered clear water which had the essence of opium was offered to guests as the highest mark of hospitality and respect and also consumed by the Rulers themselves. Opium was regarded as a magical nectar and painkiller and was thus consumed by this warrior clan of Rajputs.


Painting

Next you would see the Halls of Armoury, Paintings and Artefacts. There are very interesting daggers, spears and rifles on display here. Some daggers even have a pistol concealed in their handles. The painting collection has intricately painted miniature works with paints made out of real Gold and Silver. The artefact gallery has very beautifully carved ivory toys, some very lovely and functional silver hookahs and a door lock so big and heavy that a few people are needed to just lift it let alone fasten it!


Locks

Phool Mahal
The many palaces are a sight to behold, the Moti Mahal and The Phool Mahal are particularly very lavishly decorated. The Sheesh Mahal has mirrors fixed all around, even in the ceiling and is kind of a prayer room with paintings of Gods embedded in the mirror covered walls. The architectural design is such that the whole room can be illuminated by the use of a single candle lit and placed at a designated spot! The Palaces’ windows are adorned in Belgian Coloured Glass, Ivory and intricately carved wood with polished brass fittings. In one of these Palaces is displayed the Marwar Flag all surrounded by Red and Gold.
Moti Mahal


Carvings on a window

The winding staircases within the Fort take you up further into these halls and through many rooms, big and small, bring you to the textile collection where garments worn by the Royal Family and the common man are displayed, many different types and styles of turbans are next and a tent so beautiful that one would want to wear it to an event! This tent was rolled up and carried along when the Royal Family went out for game and hunting. The fan made out of cloth and frills is also hung over the tent and kept safe from decay and wear and tear by special techniques used by the curators at the museum.

Sheesh Mahal

Exit to The Wonderland



The exit is just as ceremonious and grand as was the entry to this beautiful wonderland of history. A temple on the right and the museum shop on the left of the last courtyard that you traverse. Just around the corner are traditionally attired folk musicians playing their most mellifluous melodies. The descent is a bit steep and a good soled pair of shoes is highly recommended. The Loha Pol will again leave you speechless if the tour so far already hasn’t dumbfounded you. On both the sides of the gate are sati hand prints carved into red sandstone by the descendants of these Satis who willingly or maybe under the influence of opium decided to leave the world with their beloved husbands on the same pyre cradling the husband’s head in their laps. A chill runs down the spine on hearing this fact, isn’t it? 


Sati Hand Prints carved in Red Sand Stone

The Fort timings are 9 am to 5 pm everyday but there are also special evening champagne tours that are conducted here. To get further details get in touch with us by clicking here.



Mehrangarh

Friday 10 August 2018

Exploring the Countryside : Village Safari in Jodhpur, Rajasthan

“India lives in its villages”, said Mahatma Gandhi. And rightly so, untouched by the jet setting world and the stress of urban living, Indian villages are a haven of peace and tranquility. The life is simple and all the needs are met at the local level itself. A village safari is the best way to get a glimpse into the humble lives of the villagers of India. A brief account of what to expect during your Village Safari near Jodhpur is given here as a short guide to your trip. 

Village safaris are conducted both during the morning and the evening hours. A well conducted safari takes around 3-4 hours depending upon the time the guests spend soaking in and absorbing the wondrous countryside. To keep the rural life undisturbed by urban and touristic movement there are pre-decided pathways that the safari guides take. Though one is free to explore further into the villages but it sure would disturb the routine life of the inhabitants.

We take you through the morning safari as this one gives more chances of seeing and experiencing the true countryside life. After a hearty breakfast you must leave by 8-8:30 am for the 75-80 kms loop the village safari traverses.


If the season favours you might be greeted by a dancing peacock as you enter the villages near Jodhpur Municipal Limits. The many birds and animals that you would encounter and meet during this trip will include the domesticated cows, buffaloes, goat and sheep and the free roamers like peacocks, camels, bluebulls (Nilgai), deer - chital / chinkara and lucky few can also spot the endangered black bucks, mongoose, partridges, mynas, lapwings, jungle wabblers, quails, monster lizards and many more. Keep your cameras ready to click away the many wonders of the rural life.

We drive through the main marketplace which is lined by shops that sell everyday essentials and farm needs and equipment. This place is buzzing with activity during the mornings as the farmers bring their produce here to sell. People throng the market for the freshly plucked vegetables and fruits buying them straight from the farmers. The farmers bring their produce in wagons and set shop at the back of the very same wagons, no permanent infrastructure needed. The vegetables are absolutely freshly picked from the farms and sold at a reasonable price - perfect recipe for a happy cultivator and a happier consumer! Same set up goes for milk as well, right from the cows / buffaloes and straight to the consumers - no heavy expense on transportation and no fee to the middlemen. People in villages do not believe in buying the groceries for weeks and storing in the refrigerators. They buy their freshies every morning and consume them during the day. 

A local snack called Kachori is served hot in a small shop in this market. A quick stop for a snack and tea if it pleases you and you then are taken to the Potter’s home. 


The potters’ main products are the earthen pitchers that are widely used in India for storing drinking water. The clay, which is normally sourced from river beds is kneaded  and mixed with sawdust and then on a potters wheel is shaped into a matka (the pot), dried and then baked. While baking the saw dust burns away leaving the pot porous. These tiny pores help keep the pot moist and the stored water cool. How scientific is that and coming from uneducated potters! The potters have lately ventured into clay artefacts as well. There are a lot of decorative items, small and large pots and pans, wind chimes, lamps and paperweights that you can see at the workshop in a potter’s home. To give the guests a firsthand experience, the potters keep some ready clay for the guests to throw in a bowl or a tumbler. You may try your hands at creating one and carrying it away as a souvenir. 











Moving on, you would encounter a few shepherds grazing their herds. A little chat with them will give you an insight into their lives, a photo to remember them by and we come upon a camp of the nomadic snake charmers’ tribe. These tribals are mainly snake charmers and skilled dancers who perform their famous dance “kaalbeliya” (also the name of their tribe) in evenings at various resorts and cultural activities centres. During the days they keep themselves occupied with chiselling grinding stones and wheels, tending cattle and farms for the landlords around the area and preparing for their next performance. Caution here before you decide to enter their campsite. Let the guide take permission from their leader before you interact with them. They might not appreciate any breach of their privacy.








Division of labour is equal in villages and men and women share responsibilities, be it grazing the cattle, working in the fields, fetching water or even cooking. Keep looking out the car windows lest you miss some interesting spectacle of village life. Now we reach our next stop which is the home of a humble native villager. The house is right next to the farms and our host is happy to take you into the farms and explain about the crops that he has sown or getting the farm ready for. There is a small shed near the farm where he keeps his cows and buffaloes. The cattle is treated with very high care as the people’s livelihood and day to day life depend on them. The cattle dung is used for making dung cakes which are used as cooking fuel. Whatever the argument might be from an urban citizen, the villagers believe that the smoke emanating from this fuel keeps their homes disinfected, sterilised and free from flies and bugs. Other interesting things of their everyday use that you will see here are - the stove, the metal cover for milk, mud huts used as storage for grains and kitchen, neatly stacked dried cow dung cakes and utensils. Our farmer family is a very gracious host and offer tea to the visitors with some chit chat about their daily life. Suit yourself to indulge in these rustic pleasures.















The openness of space in villages vis a vis the cities is quite a sight to take in. As we head towards our next stop, we cross this beautiful natural pond which is a hangout for many birds and cattle. The rain water is stored here for use in the later months post monsoons. The water lasts around six-eight months. You can take a short picnic stopover here and munch onto some sandwiches or chips. Cows drinking water at the pond, peacocks all around, partridges, doves, pigeons pecking at the millets offered by the villagers, sounds of the bells around the cows’ necks, some moos from the cows and screams of the peacocks, soft hum of a tubewell running in a distance - this is your picnic music. 
Next we walk along and reach a shrine dedicated to the local deities of Mamaji and Bhomiyaji. People invite the deities to the weddings in their families, usually the first invitation card is addressed to them and left at the shrine. These horse mounted deities are highly revered in these villages and have followers from across faiths.



















We now reach the clean quaint cottage of Roopraj Durry Udyog. A small family run unit, they are weavers of the famous Salawas Durries. They also are farmers and have made this beautiful workshop and home in a corner of their farms. Here you get to see how these durries are woven on a loom. They create numerous traditional and modern patterns on these durries, can even customise the patterns for you if you give them a print/ picture of the pattern of your choice. The prices here would definitely be lower than the showrooms in big cities. The family is exceptionally hospitable and lets you sit around and watch while they are at work. How the plain white threads are stretched on the loom (tana) and the coloured threads woven in between the stretched threads (bana), is patiently explained by the artisans. The hatthas (or handles) that hold the stretched threads are then shifted to exchange their positions and again the coloured thread is passed through them. This is an ongoing process and requires an eye for detail and lot of patience. The woven threads are pushed tight into the stretched threads to ensure the final product is tightly woven with no gaps in between. A very simple tool called the comb, it even looks like one, is used for pushing the threads back. And Lo and Behold! A very pretty durry is ready for the next step of beading or tying the loose ends into tassles. Two medium sized durries can be made on a singe loom at a time. Small runners can go upto three - four in number at the same time, on the same loom. Such pretty patterns and such lively colours that you wish to pick up all of the ready ones available at the workshop. More than the experience of closely watching a durry in making, it is the quiet place and ever smiling artisans that steal your heart away. Tea and snacks are offered from a tiny little kitchen that is run in a mud hut. What a full stop to your village safari, or must we say an exclamation mark?!






You now head back to the city carrying these wonderful experiences with you. Through the many farmlands stretched over acres and acres of land with one single road cutting right across, you get your chance meetings with the wildlife of the region. A herd of deer can be spotted somewhere galloping along, a stray camel happily munching the leaves of the local Khejri tree, an odd bluebull giving you a curious glance, a carefree peacock dancing to woo his mate, some hares and mongoose crossing your path swiftly in a blink and you miss moment, a shepherd and his Indie Dog disciplining their herd, many wondrous sights to keep you totally on the lookout lest you miss something. As the road enters the village near the highway, you would see men of all ages sitting casually and chatting on a platform around an old neem or peepul tree. But wait, the safari isn’t over yet. You might get lucky to meet some more tribals on your way out of the village. Gadiya Lohars this time. The nomadic blacksmiths from Rajasthan. They travel from place to place, camping for a few months somewhere and moving on again. This tribe always had bullock carts as their means of transport but with changing times they have graduated to tempos whilst keeping their tradition of being nomads alive.
The village safari experience is recommended for all tourists - Indians or Foreigners as here you get to see the real India - up close and personal! Click here to book your safari with us with an expert guide.