Rann Utsav - All you want to know

Rann Utsav welcomes you

Every year nature presents a clean white crisp canvas and invites the artists to use their wild imagination to colour it in the most vibrant shades. The canvas is the vast expanse of the Great White Rann of Kutch and the artists, us!

Rann Utsav is an amalgamation of everything cultural, energetic, rustic and charming. A festival that celebrates life and colour. People throng the Rann of Kutch in large numbers each year when the monsoons have receded leaving behind a crusty layer of salt covering the entire land of Rann. The salt is so pure and white that it glistens in the moonlight. A full moon night experience at the Rann gives an illusion of one being inside a snow globe. Magical, to say the least.

When does the Utsav happen?

Just when the Weather Gods bless the land of the dry Rann with an abundance of water to let the salt come up and form a crust and just when the Sun God decides to be kinder to the open land. In other words, the time is post-monsoons and through the entire winter season. The Utsav starts near Diwali time in October and is on till winters last i.e., February of the subsequent year.

What is the hullabaloo all about?

A travel experience like none other! Staying in a tent in a temporarily created village. Experiencing the essence of Gujarat in just a couple of days. A tent stay yet luxurious. A complete holiday experience with adventure, luxury, cuisine, shopping, sightseeing; all aspects are taken care of. Authentic flavours of Gujarat and from other parts of the country too prepared by chefs with a five-star experience. Folk dances and arts keep you enthralled. And when you are just too tired to walk back to your tent, a buggy ride through your make-believe village to your little hut/tent.

Need we add more?

How long must one stay there?

A two-night stay is definitely a must to be able to explore the regalia that Rann Utsav is. After these two fun-filled enriching days, you might get tempted to extend your stay by a couple of days more. The days at Rann Utsav are busy, very busy with action all around, evenings are engaging and entertaining and the dusk enhances the magic of the white desert. A wholesome experience can only be had over a couple of days.

Dhamaal - The Siddi Tribal dance

What can one do at the Rann Utsav?

1. First and most cherishable is the stay in a tent, rather a tent city. You have a neighbourhood which also stays in tents, now is that not exciting enough? Tents that are equipped with all the luxuries of a hotel room, beds, electricity, air-conditioning, tea-coffee maker, amenities and a spic n span washroom too.

2. Gujarat is known for its various arts and crafts. Visit the craft bazaar and interact with the artisans directly. Pick what fancies you. Home decor, accessories, home furnishings and pottery are among the most popular products here.

3. Utsav, mela and fair are synonymous with joyrides. Here too there are many rides available - big or small, fast or slow, high or low, take your pick and enjoy the ride. Past Rann Utsavs have seen para-sailing, ziplining as popular activities.

4. Gujarati cuisine is very popular world over. Who doesn’t prefer carrying methi theplas for a road trip? Indulge in the authentic Kutchi flavours cooked in pure desi ghee with the most aromatic freshly-grounded spices. A Gujarati thali is a must-have when at the Rann Utsav.

5. Close to the venue of Rann Utsav are the culturally rich and very famous villages of the Banni Grasslands. Visit these villages during the day and interact with the villagers who also are skilled herdsmen (goats, sheep, cows, buffaloes, camels too) and craftsmen and create wonders in needlework, lacquer, wood, leather etc. Meet the villagers and visit their workshops, learn a stitch to two too! And do not forget to taste the fresh and sweet Mavo at Bhirandiyara and Kutchi dabeli along the way.

6. Kutch must be visited during the full-moon phase though other days too are equally enchanting. But the charm of a full moon night in the white desert definitely stands out. The snow globe experience as you stand on the crusty white salty earth of the Rann and are engulfed by the pearly white light of the moon reflected by the shining salt crystals. This is the most serene and surreal experience that one can get at the Rann Utsav.

7. Mention of the desert brings the thought of camels instantly, they are in an eternal relationship with each other. Camels can navigate large expanses of deserts with ease, be it the sandy desert of The Thar or the salt-crust desert of the Rann of Kutch, camels can be seen loitering around on the deserts, sometimes taking a passenger for a joyride and sometimes just like that without any purpose.

8. Gujarat holds the distinction of having the longest dance festival in the world - Dandiya / Garba lasts full 10 days! There are other dance forms too from Gujarat that are famous for their history and style. Siddi tribe from the jungles of Sasan Gir perform a vitality-infusing Dhamaal dance, do not miss their live performance. They originally hail from Africa, but have settled in Gujarat for long.

What’s more, you also get a sightseeing tour of other attractions of Kutch on the last day of your stay at The Rann Utsav. While you carry on with an engaging tour which takes you to the villages, the local artisans’ homes, the many museums and other attractions, do not forget to get down from your ride and take a picture at the Tropic of Cancer which cuts across the road that connects Dhordo to Bhuj. There is a magnetic field too along the way where if left in neutral, the car moves slightly backwards.

The bazaar at the Utsav

How to reach?

Bhuj is your nearest railway station as well as the airport. If you are booked to stay at the Rann Utsav, their pickup buses will meet you outside the railway station / airport. Similarly, you will also get a drop to the railway station / airport on the day you check-out.

Rann Utsav can easily be called a tour of all of cultural Gujarat in just a couple of days. For other destinations, monuments, wildlife parks, pilgrimages and other attractions though one needs to take a tour of the state. There is so much that one can see and explore in Gujarat. Truly a vibrant state.

Patan and Modhera - A day excursion

Ahmedabad - visited, revisited, explored, seen, experienced, said the one who travels often to this World Heritage City. Suggest someplace new, please. “How about a walk through chapters of history, stanzas of exquisite carvings, paragraphs of architectural marvels, and tattered dog-eared papers of thousands of years ago?”, suggested another.

And off we embark on this one-of-a-kind excursion which takes you to two of the most beautiful architectural wonders from thousands of years ago, one of these wonders was obscurely hidden from the world and buried under the silt of the now extinct Saraswati river and the other is a creation that can amuse a common man and a scientist alike. I am taking you to Modhera and Patan today. Let’s go!

A hearty breakfast is a must before you embark on this day-long excursion. Leave early so that you get leisurely time at both these monuments and yet return to Ahmedabad in time for your evening tea.

First, Patan: The world-famous Patola weave haven

Patan is on the World map for two major reasons - one, the GI tagged Patola weave sarees are from this small village of weavers, and second, the World Heritage site of Rani Ki Vav is located here. The same monument that has marked its presence on a hundred rupee note too.

Step wells are the motels of yore. Tired weary travellers would rest here where there was an abundance of fresh drinking water, food, and a recharging station for their e-vehicles (alright, not exactly an ‘e’ vehicle but green and sustainable nonetheless- the horses, camels and the likes). Step wells were also the cafés where kitty parties were organised, well in a way. Women would meet up at step wells on the pretext of ‘fetching a pail of water’ and unlike Jack n Jill, they did not fall down but sat down to have those saas-bahu chats. Am assuming that saas-bahu matters must be as old as time immemorial.

Imaginations galore! Step wells were perfect examples of rainwater harvesting, community service, and a civilisation thriving in harmony. 

UNESCO World Heritage monument of Rani Ki Vav - Built in the memory of 11th-century Chalukya King Bhima-I by his loving consort Rani Udyamati, is adorned with beautifully carved relief sculptures of Gods and Goddesses, and other articles of everyday life of those times. The Vav unexpectedly rises in front of your eyes as you search for it in the beautifully manicured surrounding gardens. Silted over and hidden from the world, this majestic stepwell has been painstakingly, one brushstroke at a time, revealed and brought to us by The Archaeological Survey of India. The ASI maintains the pristine beauty of the monument with utmost care. Unlike the usual step wells, Rani Ki Vav has just one facade that rises or rather dips down majestically in front of your awed eyes! From atop the well, you can have a complete view of the monument, take innumerable pictures and indeed exclaim in amazement. A closer look reveals the exquisitely carved sculptures, those of Gods and Goddesses and of other celestial beings. These sculptures symbolise water and fertility. Many apsaras and nagakanyas adorn the inner walls and vertical panels of the well. Other celestial beings like the Digpalas (custodians of the directions), asuras, yoginis, and other birds and animals are also beautifully depicted on the walls. Another major attraction is the depiction of Lord Vishnu (the water God) in three niches of the well. 

One can only marvel and wonder at the scientific knowledge of the masons and architects of those times who brought this beautiful creation to life, even leaving their signatures here and there in the form of mason’s marks. Wooden pegs that held the rock bricks together, supporting pillars that gave strength to the structure and prevented it from caving in, are all examples of ancient architectural knowledge.

Each sculpture that one sees inside the well has a certain explanation and story to it which of course should be left for the guide to share when you physically visit the monument. One particular pattern that one can not miss is the geometrical designs on the walls of the well that have proudly taken a spot on the famous Patola sarees. The unmissable patterns are intricate lattices of Swastikas, Triangles, Rectangles, and other geometrically symmetrical patterns.

A little bit about Patola :

The world-famous weave takes a lot of planning and calculations to be put together. First and foremost is to prepare the “blueprint” of the pattern. Blueprint - because we are creating an exceptional marvel in each saree and it requires as thorough a planning as is required while creating a skyscraper maybe! The thread then is dyed as per the pattern; measured, marked, dyed to accuracy so that the colours fall corresponding to their respective places. Phew! So much of an effort and we bargain for a discount! One double-ikkat Patola takes anything between 3-9 months to complete and no two Patolas are alike. Now there are only a handful of weavers who are carrying on with this legacy, the younger generation is not motivated enough to join the family tradition of creating these Patola weaves.

Our second attraction - The Sun Temple at Modhera.

Older than the other famous cousin, Sun Temple of Konark, Modhera precedes Konark by around a hundred and twenty-five years. The temple comprises three components- a Gudhamandapa (prayer hall), a Sabhamandapa (assembly hall), and a Kund (reservoir). The wonder though lies in the fact that the Tropic of Cancer bisects the Temple complex (yes all three components) in equal halves, and during the equinoxes, the rays of the rising sun fall straight where once the deity graced a throne, passing through yes! you guessed it right - all three components again.

The temple from the Solanki dynasty era was built around the time when the forces and elements of nature took the center stage as Gods and Goddesses. Air, water, fire, earth, sky were venerated and worshipped. The temple complex exudes a certain peace and charm and radiates certain energy which would leave you calm and composed and would serve as the biggest de-stressor. 

As one crosses over the main gates of the complex and walks towards the temple, the first marvel to greet is the Kund, also known as the Ramakund. Served as a purifying and cleansing water body for the weary visitors who undertook days or weeks-long journeys to come here, the Kund also has 108 small and big temples/shrines. The rectangular reservoir has comfortable steps that lead one down to the water level and are built in such a pattern that the bathers get privacy too.

Next is the Sabhamandapa, adorned with beautifully carved pillars and walls, with twelve Adityas all around - the twelve versions of the Sun, each representing a month of the calendar. Scenes of Mahabharata can also be seen carved on a few pillars. 

An expert tip: Do take a selfie with the ceiling of the Mandapa, that comes out exceptionally well.

The most magical of the three components of the temple is the Gudhamandapa, the throne of the deity. Though now, the spot where God once presided is empty, the straight piercing rays of the Sun during the equinoxes penetrates the three components and brightly illuminates not just the spot but the entire shrine. This isn’t all to marvel at, hold the compass on your phone and be equally amused. The tropic of cancer passes through the temple and bisects the whole complex in two equal halves. 

The Gudhamandapa, like the other sections, is equally beautiful with carvings on its pillars and walls. The pillars are covered with intricately carved statues of men and women, one particularly noticeable is that of a mother holding a baby in her arms.

After the Gudhamandapa, step out to take a leisurely walk around the temple, marveling at and clicking pictures of the carvings on the outer walls of the temple. Surya (Sun God) is shown in many different avatars, dancers, apsaras, animals and birds and many other interesting sculptures are sure to hold your attention for long.

The Archaeological Survey of India ensures that these monuments are immaculately preserved and taken care of. Click to your heart’s content as they generously allow the tourists to take as many pictures as they might want. The only request: be a responsible tourist.

Time for us to head back to Ahmedabad after a drink of cool and refreshingly clean water. Though there are a few eating joints along the road, we recommend you carry a packed lunch with you. 

An expert tip: A visit to a place like Modhera and Patan must not be forgotten with time, it should be chronicled in a journal with photos and illustrations.

Tea at one of the on-the-way places or your hotel at Ahmedabad - the choice is yours. Our promise: this is one excursion that you would want to take over and over again. Cherish the day’s experience till we come back with yet another account of yet another interesting outing.

Till then, happy holidaying!