Twin Pilgrimage - Dwarka and Somnath

Jai Shri Krishna! This is how most of the Gujaratis greet one another. Aptly enough, for the land of Krishna will have his name echoing everywhere. Char Dham - The four main pilgrimages in Hinduism and out of the four, one is the Divine city of Dwarka. 

Dwarka - God's own preferred divine land

Calmly perched on the shore of the Okhamandal Peninsula and lovably cupped in the caressing palms of the Gomti river is this small and peaceful holy city. Filled with tranquility, peace, and serenity and dotted with hundreds of temples the city was built around 2500 years ago.

Many a legends are woven around the city and the most interesting one explains why there isn’t any source of fresh water available here, why the municipality of Dwarka city has to call for water trains and tankers from other places to fulfil the daily requirement of drinking water for the city. The legend says that the city was cursed by an angry Sage. Here goes the story, in brief - Lord Krishna and his wife Rukmini were pulling the chariot for Rishi Durvasa, the saint known for his short temper, to bring him to Dwarka for a feast on occasion of their marriage. Rukmini being a dainty princess got tired and thirsty on the way and Krishna brought Ganges to quench her thirst by prodding his toe in the ground. Rukmini drank the water but the Rishi sitting in the chariot took it as an insult as she did not offer the water to him first. He cursed Krishna and Rukmini that despite being married, they would not have the bliss of togetherness, and hence the temples of Krishna and Rukmini are also at quite a distance from each other. Another curse by Rishi Durvasa was that Krishna’s capital city will not have any source of fresh water and hence no vegetation too. Surprisingly enough, there isn't much that grows here, nor are there any coconut trees also despite Dwarka being a coastal town. The reason for Dwarka having low or no vegetation is the high salinity of the soil here.

The visitors usually arrive during evening hours after a drive from the nearest airport (Jamnagar) / railway station (Dwarka) and straightaway check in to their hotels. After a quick bite and a little rest, they leave for the temple visits. Let's begin at the main temple of Dwarkadhish himself (Lord of Dwarka, Shri Krishna). One of the many pandits inside the complex would offer to be your guide for a fee “as per your wish” and that too, not compulsory. Our guide was a tall, fair skinned, doe eyed pandit ji all dressed in bright yellow and white. He regaled us with the stories associated with the temple with much drama, slowly closing and opening his almond shaped eyes while narrating. There was something about the way he dramatised his story-telling that it left an everlasting impression on all of us listeners. A visit to the temple is incomplete if you do not engage a guide to tell you interesting anecdotes and history of the temple.

It is believed that the temple was built by Vajranabh, great grand son of Lord Krishna. The temple is beautifully carved out of limestone and is still in pristine condition with very little signs of erosion. The tallest Shikhara of the temple is 78.3 m high and is right above the Garbha Griha where the deity is housed. The temple complex is spread over a large area, with many smaller temples built within the complex. The shikhara is adorned by a flag which has the Sun and the Moon on it. The flag is changed five times a day, a different colour each time.

A short walk around the complex and one sees many smaller temples, a kirtan hall and a display of a collection of Shivalingas made out of precious stones. From here, there is a descent down to the Gomti Ghat - another divine experience! We reached the ghat at dusk and were spellbound by the sight of lit diyas floating in the river. Beautifully lit clean water of the river, confluences here with the salty greenish water of the ocean. Such a demarcation of colour and temperature of water, that this definitely needs to be experienced by all those who visit Dwarka. As we ascended the steps again and were on our way out, our guide took us to Maa Devaki’s temple which is located right in front of the main temple and the idols of Dwarkadhish and Maa Devki are facing each other with a direct line-of-sight. The Lord in Dwarkadhish temple is depicted in his child avatar and it is believed that Maa Devaki is constantly watching over her little child from her own temple. After this holy experience, we thanked our well informed guide and left for a little walk by the sea. Dwarka is home to many cows and you will meet them at every nook and corner of the town, by the sea shore too. The many temples that we visited the next morning included, Mata Rukmini Temple, Gayatri Temple and Nageshwar Temple, the last being one among the twelve Jyotirlingas.

A visit to Dwarka is incomplete without visiting the island temple of Bet Dwarka. We unfortunately were running on a very tight itinerary and could not spare half a day for the island visit. This gives me a reason to return to Dwarka and experience the tranquility of the holy town once again.

Dwarka and Somnath are normally visited as a twin-pilgrimage by pilgrims. After Dwarka, we were headed for another divine experience at the indomitable Somnath Temple - a true example of "It does not matter how many times you are knocked down, what matters is how many times you get up!". The coastal road from Dwarka to Somnath offers one of the most scenic drives in the state, with wind mills and occasional glimpses of the ocean along the way. Porbandar, Gandhiji’s birth place is on the way and is always recommended for a brief stopover. A quick visit to the Mahatma’s home, Sudama Mandir and Bharat mandir and you are on your way to Somnath via Veraval. Veraval, other than being a boat repair centre is also of religious importance to Hindus as the place where Lord Krishna is believed to have renounced his mortal form. There is a temple that is built at the spot. The legend has it that Lord Krishna was divinely shielded from any physical harm except on the soles of his feet. As he was resting under a tree here during an afternoon, a Bhil mistook his foot for a deer and shot an arrow which fatally struck him in the sole of his foot. There are other temples also on the way to Somnath, including the Triveni Sangam - the point of confluence of Hiran, Kapila and Saraswati rivers.

Somnath - The mightier than the Mighty!

Standing majestically tall by the seashore is the Somnath temple. It takes a while to soak in this stunning view. Beautifully built temple against the backdrop of the soaring roaring ocean! The symbol of indomitable spirit, rising from the ashes again and again, yes, eight times! The temple has been attacked and destroyed seven times and built and re-built eight times. The temple that now stands was constructed under the guidance of Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel. Believed to be the first of the twelve Jyotirlingas, it is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus. Jyotirlingas are considered as the places or sites where Lord Shiva appeared in a divine form, as a column of fire in Somnath as is believed. The shape of a lingam represents an infinite stambh or a pillar symbolising the omnipotent and omnipresent divinity.

The beautiful temple complex is definitely a must visit for everyone. Immaculately manicured gardens surround the main temple. The cool sea-breeze, the chants of mantras, the sound of the bells and oceanic waves and the spotlessly clean surroundings of the temple, make for a heady and divine experience. Pay your obeisance at the “holy Darbar” and go around the temple for a slow and leisurely parikrama. Walk along the neatly laid out walkway along the mighty Indian Ocean and let your breath get in sync with the waves lapping against the temple foundation. Feel one with the universe while you gaze at the horizon far away. Stay for the light and sound show at the amphitheatre behind the temple and do not forget to buy the chikki and laddoo prasad from the temple shop. On your way out, visit the small Ganpati temple on the left, have a drink of fresh cool water and leave with a feeling of eternal bliss.

Image source : Wikipedia, somnath.org, Tripadvisor and Gujarat Tourism as photography is prohibited in these temples.

Gangaur Festival

Rajasthan is a land of many Fairs and Festivals, each one more flamboyant and pompous than the other. Gangaur which is celebrated in Chaitra is one of the very important festivals here and is celebrated by the women folk. Married, unmarried all ladies celebrate Gangaur with much fervour and zeal. The festival is celebrated all over Rajasthan and West Bengal too. People from Rajasthan who migrated to West Bengal many many decades/centuries ago, carried their traditions, culture and festivals with them. Now Kolkata-Gangaur is also more than 100 years old.

The word Gangaur is a compound word and is formed from “Gana” and “Gauri”, Gana being Lord Shiva the deity and Gauri, his wife Goddess Parvati. This is a festival of spring, harvest and marital fidelity. Unmarried girls celebrate Gangaur seeking blessings for a good husband. Gangaur is celebrated in the honour of Goddess Gauri, who is considered as the symbol of virtue, devotion, fertility and an epitome of the perfect married-woman. Gangaur celebrates the union of the two and is a symbol of conjugal and marital happiness.

The festival commences on the first day of Chaitra and goes on for 18 days. Women fast during these 18 days and eat only one meal a day. The festival culminates into a bigger celebration with much fanfare. Processions of Gauri Isar are taken out with local bands playing and camels, elephants, horses and folk dancers escorting this procession.

Festivities : Clay or sometimes wooden idols of Isar and Gauri are worshipped during this festival. Women decorate their hands with mehndi / henna designs and dress up in their traditional finery. Songs are sung in praise of Isar and Gauri. Special feasts are prepared and gifts are exchanged.

On the last day of the festival, after the procession, the idols are submerged into a well or water tank bidding farewell to Gauri as it is believed that she now leaves for her husband’s home and thanking her for blessing everyone with conjugal happiness and marital bliss.

Udaipur Gangaur immersion attracts huge crowds and the ghats at lake Pichola especially the Gangaur ghat is buzzing with life and colours. 

The Unique Bullet Bike Temple

Of the many intriguing stories that are heard in India, Rajasthan probably tops the list in uniqueness and bizarreness of these stories. But then, these are based on truth and facts and it is all out there for everyone to see. Be it the haunted villages of Kuldhara and Ajabgadh, unmanned railway crossing at Pushkar or this one-of-its-kind Bullet Bike Temple!

This little shrine is located on the Jodhpur - Pali highway and is around 50 km from Jodhpur near Chotila village. Legend has it that Om Banna as he is now known, but was formerly addressed as Om Singh Rathore was travelling on this highway back in 1991 December, the 2nd to be precise. He lost control of his 350 CC Royal Enfield Motorcycle and hit a tree and lost his life. The bike fell in a ditch near the tree. Next morning, the local police took the bike and parked it at the Police Station. Miraculously, the bike disappeared from the Police Station and was found in the same ditch at the accident site. Interestingly enough, the Police emptied the fuel and tied the bike with chains the next day at the Police Station. But again, the bike was found in the same ditch. Any attempts of keeping the bike elsewhere failed, and people believed that it was Om Banna’s spirit that was taking the bike back to the spot where he lost his life.

Later a shrine was built around the Motorcycle where a lamp is kept lit 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and the Motorcycle is revered just like a deity with garlands and offerings. A glass case is made around the motorcycle. A portrait of Om Banna can also be seen in the background.

All travellers / commuters on this highway stop for a brief moment to pay their respects and pray for a safe journey. It is believed that Om Banna’s spirit guides the travellers in this area and blesses them for a safe journey. Regulars on this highway thank Om Banna for their safe travels. Not only this, now the place has become a popular pilgrimage site and men and women come dressed in their finery to pay their respects here. People from the region come here to bless any new vehicle they buy before the vehicle hits the road. There is an Aarti dedicated to Om Banna which is written on a poster and kept in the shrine. Many copper and brass bells are seen at the entrance, depicting the many answered prayers and fulfilled wishes. 

Folk artists sit around the shrine singing praises to Om Banna. People from across religious faiths come to pay their respects here. Sit around for a while under the shade of the Banyan tree in front of the shrine and just observe the happenings-on and one would notice a diverse crowd visiting the Om Banna Temple. A suave elite gentleman stepping out of his Mercedes as well as a local tribal, attired in his colourful garb jumping out of the trolley attached to a tractor, all come to Om Banna with the same thoughts in mind - respect and seeking blessings for safe travels always. 

Rajasthan Tourism's tag line is totally befitting this unique temple - Jaane Kya Dikh Jaye!

Tips for Tourists

Having been born and growing up in later years of my life in Rajasthan, I know for sure that I am suitably qualified to share some smart travelling tips with all those who wish to explore my vibrant home state. Here are the points to note and you can thank me later :)

What to carry

• Rajasthan is a traditionally and culturally rich state with a modern outlook. But some places here still have a conservative approach towards dressing. Hence it is advisable to carry full sleeved shirts and full pants for both men and women.

• The temperature here varies from as high as 49 degrees celsius in summers to as low as -4 degrees celsius in winters in some places. Hence depending on the season that you are likely to visit in, Kindly carry the following clothing along:

1. For a dry and hot summer season : Soft breathable cotton clothes in lighter colours, sunscreen, shades, umbrellas, flip flops and breathable closed shoes, full sleeved cotton shirts and full pants in breathable fabric to avoid over exposure to the sun, hats and caps, sippers.
2. For dry and very cold winters : Thick woollen sweaters and jackets, woollen socks, thick shoes or boots, full woollen pants, monkey caps or beanies, mufflers, ear muffs, gloves and shades.

• Some religious places have a certain set of code of conduct and may require you to cover your head, go barefoot inside the complex or leave any leather articles you might be carrying outside the premises (belts, bags, wallets). There might be a deposit box facility in such places or you might have to take turns to visit. I suggest that you read about the place before visiting and carry a small cloth wallet on that visit.

Food and Beverages

• People is Rajasthan prefer a little spicy food and relish their desserts with the same gusto. You need to keep in mind to ask about the use of red chillies in the local cuisine, as the food is quite spicy here. The use of oil and ghee also is very liberal. Among the non-vegetarian foods, you will find chicken and lamb very easily but fish and other seafood is available only at a few hotels and restaurants. Please ask for bottled water or check with the restaurant you eat in if they have a proper functioning water filter installed. 

• Tipping at the restaurants is entirely your prerogative, as service charge is included in bills in most of the places. You may want to check your bill first before deciding on tipping. 

Mementoes and souvenirs

• The Govt certified shops and emporia have a fixed price structure and you would not require to bargain there. Additionally, the goods purchased from these stores would be of good quality.

• Always insist on obtaining a proper invoice for your purchases and ensure your cards are swiped in your presence. 

Sightseeing

• Please have a proper itinerary made from your travel service provider as different monuments have different days as their weekly maintenance days and are shut on such days. To utilise your time optimally it always helps to check the “closed days” and “visiting hours” of the temples / monuments / museums you are interested in visiting.

• Smoking and consumption of alcohol is strictly prohibited in public places in India. In restaurants, you may ask for a smoking zone if it is demarcated/designated as not all the restaurants have a smoking zone. Likewise, drinks will be served in the designated bar / restaurant only.

• Govt trained and authorised guides can be hired at most of the tourist places. English speaking guides are easy to find but you may also find guides speaking other Indian/International languages too. Do remember to check their Identity Card before engaging them for your sight seeing.

• Some monuments and tourist sites have facility of audio-guides as well.

Important

• Some border area of Gujarat and Rajasthan require special Govt permissions to visit, please ask your travel service provider to advise and assist on obtaining these permissions.

• In cities you can easily change most foreign currencies and brands of traveller cheques. ATMs are available in all big cities and most of the towns and villages.

Be Safe

• Buy your tickets from authorised ticketing agents/websites only. Always ask for an invoice.

• Most of the cities have prepaid auto rickshaw and taxi booths, hire a taxi from these booths only.

• Take a photo of the number plate of the taxi and share it with your near ones.

• Tipping of taxi drivers is totally your decision, it is not customary or obligatory.

• Do not accept food / drinks / lifts from strangers.

• Avoid isolated places and going out late at night.

• In case of emergency please dial 100 for the Police.

Rajasthan is a tourists’ paradise and Rajasthanis are among the most hospitable people in the world but it is always good to be a bit cautious and careful while you travel.

Happy Travelling!!

Heritage Walk - Ahmedabad

A brief History

The First World Heritage City of India, Ahmedabad was founded in the year 1411.

Solanki rulers founded a city named Karnavati in the eleventh century on the banks of Sabarmati river after establishing their victory over the Bhils. Many subsequent battles gave Karnavati many different rulers in different times. At the end of the thirteenth century an independent Sultanate ruled by the Muslim Mazaffarid dynasty was established. The fourteenth Sultan Ahmed Shah renamed Karnavati as Ahmedabad and established it as his capital. Ahmedabad was the capital of the Sultanate for 162 years (1411 - 1573). The city has presence of all the architectural wonders created during those years.

A walk to remember

Swaminarayan Mandir, Kalupur

The uniqueness of this walk is that it starts from a temple and ends at a mosque. "Mandir se Masjid Tak" as it is popularly referred to as. The walk commences at the Swaminarayan Mandir in the heart of the old city of Ahmedabad in Kalupur at 07:30 am. Dedicated to the Twin Hindu Gods Nara and Narayana, this temple is an architectural marvel to behold. The beautiful carvings and the use of bright colours to decorate the temple stand out. The temple complex has a multi storeyed air-conditioned guest house and a medical centre. The darshans open at 08:30 am onwards.

Kavi Dalpatram Chowk

Blessings received from Dadaji!

Kabootarkhana

From the temple the guided walk moves towards the inside of the old city transporting one to the era gone by where everyone knew everyone, homes welcomed with open arms and doors and roads were treaded barefoot. Next stop is the Kavi Dalpatram Chowk, Lambeshwar Ni Pol. Kavi Dalpatram was a scholar and poet who strongly advocated the cause of women's empowerment. A highly revered gentleman he was lovingly referred to as Dada by one and all. His house has been modelled into a museum cum amphitheatre and is a memorial to this great poet and reformer. The museum is termed a "live-museum". The memorial, a platform with the map of the original house etched on it and a wall depicting the facade of the house as the backdrop, is actually a stage where Kavi Dalpatram's plays are staged on his birth anniversary. The locals from the area sit around and children play here every evening. There is a bronze statue of Kavi Dalpatram gracing the entrance to the memorial and to sit in the statue's lap is considered a blessing.

A traditional Pol in the old city

Traversing the narrow lanes of the old city towards the Calico Dome, the next stop, one can not help but notice the ornate towers that dot the town. These are bird feeding towers or Kabootarkhanas. The compassionate people of Gujarat from across all faiths build these towers next to their places of worship. The base of the tower is a storage for grains and bird feed, and at the top near the dome hang trays filled with feed and water for the birds. Some towers even have pigeon holes built in them for the birds to get shelter and rest.

Next on the walk comes the relief road, which also now needs a relief road looking at the heavy traffic flow! Across the relief road is the place where the historical Calico Dome once saw the hustle and bustle of the Fashion Industry. Many a models and fashion designers started their successful careers here. Unfortunately, the dome was lost to the massive earthquake of 2001. The Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation later took over the place and restored the remains keeping the heritage of Calico Dome alive.

Just as the kabootarkhanas are an important feature of Gujarat, so are the Pols. Pols are gated societies where people belonging to one particular community lived together. The segregation was done to have a harmonious co-habitation with people from same background and food habits living together. However all these Pols were interconnected through secret passages to provide a safe escape route to the residents in case of any invasion / attack. 

Kala Ram Ji

The Pol that is included in the walk is the Khara Kuva Ni Pol or the Pol of the saline water well. This Pol houses a unique and famous Kala Ram Ji Temple (Temple of Black Ram Ji). Some interesting uniquenesses of this temple :

1. It is a home temple with no dome or flag but three stories of a house with 80 rooms where many families reside.

2. Lord Rama is shown in a black avatar.

3. Lord Rama is in a sitting meditative posture.

4. One of the handful of temples where Lord Rama is seen without his confidante Lord Hanuman. Mythology says that Lord Rama met Hanuman in Kishkindha after Devi Sita's abduction by Ravana, but in this temple Lord Rama is seen in meditation in Panchvati much before the abduction of Devi Sita.

As one wonders and is busy processing all of this invaluable information, the walk crosses over to another street which has a very tall metal pipe sticking out of the ground with a wind vane on top. This isn't a wind vane though, it is an exhaust for the toxic fumes and gases from the sewage tank below the ground. See, how well the sanitation was planned in the World Heritage City of Karnavati or Ahmedabad as we now know it.

Pol hopping brings the walk to another Pol, Shantinathji Pol, where the highlight is another bird feeding tower and three Derasars or Jain Temples within a distance of a few hundred meters from each other. 

A striking feature of the homes of old city of Ahmedabad is the construction of walls where wooden blocks are interspersed with concrete bricks. This unique architectural intelligence served as a natural shock absorber that resulted in zero damages to the heritage homes during the devastating earthquake of 2001.

Earthquake proof construction

The next turn brings this heritage walk through one of those secret passages we mentioned earlier, to the Kuvawala Khancha. This quiet corner is an art gallery in itself with four different architectural styles showcased in one little street corner! There are homes made in Mughal, Maratha, British and Persian styles.

Yet another noticable feature in the walls of the heritage buildings are Popat Ni Gokh. These are tiny insulated apertures left in the outer walls of buildings at heights of more than ten feet from the ground for Parrots to build their nests in them and thus aptly named Popat Ni Gokh the translation of which is Homes of Parrots.

Popat Ni Gokh, encroached upon by a squirrel :)

This marks the half way mark in the walk when the walk reaches the magnificently wood-carved Dodhia Haveli - a homestay in the old city of Ahmedabad. Many businessmen who now live abroad and have ancestral homes in Gujarat, have converted their homes / havelis into home stays. There are multi-talented attendants who keep the charm of these heritage homes intact and are skilled to dish out most lip smacking Gujarati delicacies.

Welcome!

Next is a Derasar known as Astapadji Derasar, a very uniquely carved Jain Temple with a perfectly functioning rain water harvesting system. Photography is strictly prohibited in the temple complex. 

The heritage walk is a great way to get a glimpse into the architecture of yore as well as the stories from the past. The guide regales the participants with many interesting anecdotes from the chapters of history. One, that is particularly mentionable is of a noble lady by the name of Shethani Harkuvar whose Haveli is an important landmark near Fernandez Bridge. The beautifully carved haveli was once among the largest and tallest buildings of Ahmedabad. Shethani Harkuvar was very progressive in her thinking and supported the cause of women's education. She in collaboration with Kavi Dalpatram built a school for the local girls. 

Next is the Fernandez Bridge and Chandla Ol. The first flyover of the city, Fernandez Bridge was built during the British Era. The largest text-book market is set up under the bridge every day. Students in all age groups flock this market where one can get lucky to get one's hands on a as-good-as-new second-hand book too. The many shops around here have their owners living on the floors above the shops. Another smart feature - no travel time to and from work!

Next few shops are sweetmeat shops and these lanes then converge into the popular Manek Chowk. Manek Chowk is abuzz with life 24 hours a day - a well thought out plan to keep the business district of the city safe from any possibilities of theft or robberies. A vegetable market during early hours of the day, makes way for the bustling jewellery market which in the evening shuts down to let many street food hawkers set shop. The riot of a food bonanza keeps the place alive till wee hours in the morning. The popularity of this place is such that one has to wait for a while to get served. Manek Chowk is flanked by Rani No Hazeero on one side and Badshah Ka Hazeera on the other. A little information here : The final resting place of persons from royal lineage is called a Hazeera, that of a saint is called a Mazaar and the one for common people is referred to as a Kabristan. Men are allowed inside the main mausoleum at the Hazeera while women are not. This is the final resting place of Sultan Ahmed Shah, founder of Ahmedabad.

Just in front of the Hazeera are homes of locals with many graves interspersed with the living quarters, some inside rooms and many in the open spaces between houses. Clearly sending out a message that life forms a complete circle! What has arrived must someday leave too.

Jama Masjid, Ahmedabad

The final destination in this 2 kms long heritage walk is the Jama Masjid / Jami Masjid which gets its name from Jumma which means Friday in Arabic. The Jama Masjid of any city is the largest mosque of that city.

The heritage walk brings the participants to the second gate of the mosque, where they need to remove and carry their shoes to be kept outside the main gate of the mosque as the walk culminates outside the main gate of The Jama Masjid. A strict dress code is observed at the mosque -

Women : Cover your arms and legs

Men : Cover your legs

Houd-e-Vazu

This mosque was built by Badshah Ahmed Shah and has some very unique and striking features ; The architecture is a mix of Jain, Hindu and Mughal Architectural styles. The main mosque does not have a dome. A separate elevated prayer room is made for women. A huge Houd - e - Vazu (the pond for cleansing) graces the centre of the expansive courtyard. At a time around 5000 pilgrims can pray here. The corridors around the courtyard have holy inscriptions painted on the walls. Marvel at this wondrous place of worship and leave with memories for a lifetime.

Now some authentic Gujarati snack

Fafda with Kadhi and Raw Papaya Condiment

The most scrumptious Jalebis

All that walking is sure to make one hungry, the participants can head to the nearby Chandravilas - a century old restaurant which boasts of patrons like Mahatma Gandhi, Sardar Patel, Raj Kapoor and many famous personalities. A scrunchy bite into a juicy jalebi and a mouthful of flavourful Khaman will leave you wanting more. Then there is the local speciality Fafda with kadhi and raw papaya chutney. 

 

You have a whole day ahead of you for more sightseeing of this beautiful heritage city. You can cover a few highlights in a day or if you have more time at hand, stay for a couple of days and visit the attractions nearby too.

Walk on!!